So far the people I see most frequently here in Egypt are our compound guards and shuttle drivers. These men are the most friendly and interesting group that I have encountered. They all speak some English and they are eager to use it. (They are also extremely interested in making sure I learn Arabic- but more about that in another post.)
Yesterday I had to take the family shuttle down to the Embassy. This shuttle runs by request only and I am usually the only person on the shuttle. Yesterday morning I had a very talkative driver, Ayman.
Ayman began by saying that it was going to very hot today. This was a problem because he is fasting for Ramadan and he had 17 hours to get through with no food, drink, or tobacco. The discussion of fasting quickly lead to the delights of Iftar, the evening meal which breaks the fast. Ayman's wife was apparently an amazing cook and he was anxious for this evening's meal. Our conversation led to two very interesting accounts from his life:
Wives
Ayman has been married three times. He married his first wife in Yugoslavia when he worked there for a while. She divorced him when he wanted to come back to Egypt. His second wife lived only six months after they were married. When I expressed sympathy for his loss his response was, "Ah well, these things happen." Ayman told his parents that he had no intention of finding a third wife. They, however, wanted grandchildren. They found a suitable wife from Upper Egypt (in the much more conservative south) and arranged the match. Ayman and his wife met only three times (once a month for three months) before they were married. In that time, they were never alone together and they never even touched.
Being from the more conservative south, Ayman's wife is much different than other Cairenes' wives. He is greeted at the door when he comes home and she removes his shoes. She then helps him change into clean clothes. When he does not eat enough in her opinion, she will hand-feed him more. From time to time he objects that he does not want to get fat. She insists that this is her goal, 'so that other women won't look at you'. In the 18 years they have been married they have had four children- three girls and a boy. I asked whether he liked they way his wife treated him and he pondered for a moment. "I don't want her to do so much for me, but I don't forbid it because it makes me feel like a king." His daughters, by the way, insist that they will never treat their own husbands like this!
Egypt Itself
Ayman has lived overseas and traveled quite extensively. He spent three years in Yugoslavia working at a job that took him all over the Middle East and North Africa. He speaks three languages and has had the opportunity to observe Muslims of many different cultures. His conclusion? Egypt is by far the best of all these countries. Maybe it's something from the Nile or something in the air, but Egypt and its people are the most generous and loving of any others. Any time you need something- food, water, or anything else- all you have to do is walk up to a house or apartment, knock on the door and ask. You will be treated like an honored guest. During Ramadan, Egyptians make an extra effort to feed all who want to eat. They will lay out tables in the streets and in the parks and welcome anyone who comes, whether they are Muslim, Christian, or Jew.
I must say that in my short experience so far, I think he is right about Egyptians' generosity. I have seen the tables put out in the streets and I have seen men standing at intersections handing out dates and juice (traditional break-fast foods) just as the Iftar call of prayer sounds. They run up to the cars and hand things through the windows to as many people as they can. In addition, more than one American has stories of being in some sort of distress on the streets and having a crowd of people run to their aid.
Ayman regrets the changes that have come about in Egypt since the revolution. Before, everyone trusted everyone because the law was strong. Now, there is suspicion among neighbors and the tendency towards the strong taking advantage of the weak. He does not have high hopes for the new government, but would like to see them start to improve things.
Yesterday I had to take the family shuttle down to the Embassy. This shuttle runs by request only and I am usually the only person on the shuttle. Yesterday morning I had a very talkative driver, Ayman.
Ayman began by saying that it was going to very hot today. This was a problem because he is fasting for Ramadan and he had 17 hours to get through with no food, drink, or tobacco. The discussion of fasting quickly lead to the delights of Iftar, the evening meal which breaks the fast. Ayman's wife was apparently an amazing cook and he was anxious for this evening's meal. Our conversation led to two very interesting accounts from his life:
Wives
Ayman has been married three times. He married his first wife in Yugoslavia when he worked there for a while. She divorced him when he wanted to come back to Egypt. His second wife lived only six months after they were married. When I expressed sympathy for his loss his response was, "Ah well, these things happen." Ayman told his parents that he had no intention of finding a third wife. They, however, wanted grandchildren. They found a suitable wife from Upper Egypt (in the much more conservative south) and arranged the match. Ayman and his wife met only three times (once a month for three months) before they were married. In that time, they were never alone together and they never even touched.
Being from the more conservative south, Ayman's wife is much different than other Cairenes' wives. He is greeted at the door when he comes home and she removes his shoes. She then helps him change into clean clothes. When he does not eat enough in her opinion, she will hand-feed him more. From time to time he objects that he does not want to get fat. She insists that this is her goal, 'so that other women won't look at you'. In the 18 years they have been married they have had four children- three girls and a boy. I asked whether he liked they way his wife treated him and he pondered for a moment. "I don't want her to do so much for me, but I don't forbid it because it makes me feel like a king." His daughters, by the way, insist that they will never treat their own husbands like this!
Egypt Itself
Ayman has lived overseas and traveled quite extensively. He spent three years in Yugoslavia working at a job that took him all over the Middle East and North Africa. He speaks three languages and has had the opportunity to observe Muslims of many different cultures. His conclusion? Egypt is by far the best of all these countries. Maybe it's something from the Nile or something in the air, but Egypt and its people are the most generous and loving of any others. Any time you need something- food, water, or anything else- all you have to do is walk up to a house or apartment, knock on the door and ask. You will be treated like an honored guest. During Ramadan, Egyptians make an extra effort to feed all who want to eat. They will lay out tables in the streets and in the parks and welcome anyone who comes, whether they are Muslim, Christian, or Jew.
I must say that in my short experience so far, I think he is right about Egyptians' generosity. I have seen the tables put out in the streets and I have seen men standing at intersections handing out dates and juice (traditional break-fast foods) just as the Iftar call of prayer sounds. They run up to the cars and hand things through the windows to as many people as they can. In addition, more than one American has stories of being in some sort of distress on the streets and having a crowd of people run to their aid.
Ayman regrets the changes that have come about in Egypt since the revolution. Before, everyone trusted everyone because the law was strong. Now, there is suspicion among neighbors and the tendency towards the strong taking advantage of the weak. He does not have high hopes for the new government, but would like to see them start to improve things.
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